My Work and Methods:

Over the years in my restoration business I have placed special emphasis on repairing original parts, rather than replacing them, to the greatest extent possible. To this end I use not only traditional hand tools, but also modern tools and techniques. The cabinetmaking masters of the past were thrilled with the effort and money they saved using the latest technology available at the time, and would have loved electric power tools. In the ongoing antique conservation debate, I and the majority of my clients have leaned towards the view of restoring a piece to its original function while maintaining its character, rather than preserving it as a rickety showpiece which can't be used. Certain furniture of special historical value sometimes requires a more hands-off approach. I have restored many four-poster beds, often adapting them to accommodate modern queen and king mattresses, and have built a variety of new headboards.

A large part of my work has been with mahogany, of which I consider myself a practical expert. On numerous occasions I have started at the beginning of the cycle, cutting down the trees myself and hauling them to the sawyers, milling them into rough boards, then stacking and air-drying them for a few years before using them in various projects. I have an ample supply of antique mahogany for repairs, as well as new boards of West Indian mahogany, the world's finest, which has been unavailable commercially for a century.

My shop work utilizes power tools, but the majority of my time is spent with hand tools, using chisels, planes, files, etc. to cut and fit. I frequently use mortise and tenon construction, as well as dovetails and whatever else is required to match the piece I'm repairing. I use a variety of adhesives, from hide glue to epoxy, depending upon the project. I don't use plywood, or modern style screws and fasteners on an antique, even if they are buried beneath the surface. I have a certain talent for bringing back projects from the dead, and restoring the original wood pieces of the furniture rather than replacing them. I always seek to find the balance between getting the job done right and providing it at a reasonable cost to my customers.

I generally use a hand rubbed tung oil/varnish finish, or sometimes shellac, followed by paste wax, on my shop work. I have spent many years developing this method, which leaves a sturdy finish with an antique glow. This requires extensive hand rubbing between every coat. When possible, I go to great lengths to restore existing finishes. I don't use any lacquer or spray finishes. When needed, I strip and refinish pieces as part of a restoration project, but I don't really have a refinishing shop and can't take in furniture solely for that purpose.

When time allows, I build new projects using traditional techniques including mortise and tenon joints and dovetailed drawers.